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| Crimp Versus Crinkle |
| I want to thank Alpacas Magazine for allowing me to extend
the discussion of crimp, now that we have been joined by Eric Hoffman with his
recent article entitled, "Curvature: Is it Crimp or Something Else?" His
article takes issue with some of what I had previously reported, and I welcome the
opportunity to expand on my ideas and to disagree with Eric's points of view. |
| Read complete article >
HTML (109 KB) |
| Alpaca Fiber from the
Textile Point of View |
| Once alpaca fleece is in the bag, what is it worth? The
textile manufacturer could not care less whether the fleece available for sale
came from a prize winning stud or the herd's ugly duckling. Understanding what
qualities the buyer desires most is the key to getting maximum value from
Alpaca fiber production. |
Read complete article >
HTML or  PDF
(109 KB) |
| Don't Let Micron Madness
Crimp Your Style |
| Today, people are going from state to state and farm to farm
selecting alpacas, often with only one thought in mind -- what is the micron
count? I can tell you that a histogram is absolutely and unequivocally
irrelevant as the basis of evaluation for two different animals from two
different farms. The problem is further complicated if the animals being
compared are of different age and different sex or if the histogram is an old
one. |
| Read complete article >
PDF (76 KB) |
| The Wool Industry Faces a
Prickly Question - Are People Allergic to Wool? |
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As it turns out, over 30% of American consumers surveyed by the International
Wool Secretariat reported that they were "allergic" to wool. After extensive
study, scientists have determined that these consumers were not allergic to
wool. The perceived allergic reaction to wool was actually a painful response
by sensitive skin to coarse fibers. The consumers skin was being "prickled" by
coarse guard hair or kemp-like fiber found in the wool.
Scientists have determined that it doesn't matter whether a garment is made of
wool, alpaca, mohair, or man-made acrylics. If over 5% of the fabric is
comprised of fiber with a diameter in excess of 30 microns, it will prickle or
itch. Research has also established that once the average diameter of the fiber
in a fabric or sweater exceeds 22 microns, the prickle factor begins to appear.
In other words, the person wearing the garment begins to itch.
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| Read complete article >
PDF (112 KB) |
| The Role of Crimp in the
Textile Process |
| The term "crimp" has become a very familiar term to alpaca
breeders. Crimp is defined as the natural wave formation of the fiber,
expressed as waves or crimps per unit of length. Visually, crimp is most
notable in the well organized staples or locks found in the fleece. Crimp also
occurs along the shaft of a single fiber. This has been defined by Cameron
Holt, of the Melbourne College of Textiles, as crinkle. |
| Read complete article >
PDF (144 KB) |
| Some Views on Evaluating
Suri Fiber |
| Interviews with Don Julio Barreda, as well as the following
fiber processors: Derek Michell, grandson of Frank Michell, who founded Michell
CIA; Alonso Burgos, the head fleece buyer for Grupo Inca, headquartered in
Arequipa; Glynn Smith, the person responsible for sales to the world market for
Internacional Commercio of Arequipa. |
| Read complete article >
PDF (161 KB) |
| Peruvian Interviews |
| Over recent years I was fortunate to be given some private
time with Senor Derek Michell of Michell and Cia, Senor Charles Pattheys of
Inca Tops and Dr Julio Sumar, to clarify some of the "much discussed" areas of
fibre processing and selection points. To do this I posed a series of questions
to the gentlemen who were most obliging and generous with their answers. |
| Read complete article >
PDF (1,034 KB) |
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